Silver Jewellery World
Vintage Jewellery of the Art Deco Period – Trends
and Designer Names
Some of the most popular and desired types of vintage
jewellery today is that which originated from the Art Deco Period. In the 1920’s
and 30’s era both fine and costume
jewellery reflected the design ethos of the Art Deco style where good use of colour and design was
appreciated as much as the basic value of the materials.
The 1920’s saw a radical change to women’s fashion. The
long slim silhouette of 1920’s fashion required distinctive types of jewellery.
Long necklaces with pearls or jewels featuring a tassel at the end (called
sautoirs) were favoured. Long beaded necklaces using, ivory, carnelian,
coral, amber, and pearls were popular as were plain chains with pendants were
popular as they complemented the dropped waist typical of 1920’s dresses. The fashion
for sleeveless dresses meant that elaborate and decorative bangles worn on the
upper arms were seen as were bandeaux worn around the head.
Long pendant earrings
were worn as they complemented the new short bobbed hairstyles of the time. The
earrings often showed jewelled tassels to provide movement. Cocktail rings with
chunky designs were widely worn. Geometrical styles were seen in all forms of
jewellery during this era as triangles, squares, oblongs and linked circle
designs were featured.
The wearing of brooches either on evening dresses or
on the coat collar was common and one of the pieces that typified the Art Deco
Style was the double-clip brooch. Clips
were generally made in pairs so that the owner had the option of wearing them
on either side of a lapel or necklace. The clips were varied in materials and style.
A variety of, floral figurative, or geometric designs could be seen and the clips
and were made from various materials from plastics to precious gems. The
variety of materials meant that brooches were available for all tastes and
In terms of designers of Art Deco Jewellery, Paris
was at the centre of jewellery design, and well established firms such as
Boucheron and Cartier made elaborate luxury pieces. Other leading firms making luxury Art Deco
jewellery were Mauboussin (known for its use of black enamel) , New York based
Tiffany and Co. and Van Cleef and
Arpels. Cartier Art Deco pieces often
showed an Oriental or Indian influence. One speciality of the firm was the
“tutti-frutti” jewellery set with imported Indian rubies, emeralds, sapphires,
and other precious stones carved into the shape of berries and fruit.